Valves, Pumps, and Power Tools: Straight Answers from a Supply Desk

Does a well pump have a check valve?

Short answer: usually, yes. Most submersible well pumps have a built-in check valve, and the spec sheet will tell you that. But here's the thing—that built-in valve is a single point of failure. If it goes out, your pump cycles constantly, and you burn through the motor.

I don't have hard data on how many pump failures trace back to a failed check valve, but based on what I see come through our returns, I'd guess 20-30%. And when it happens, you're not replacing a $30 valve. You're replacing a $600+ pump.

Most contractors I work with install a secondary check valve anyway. Is it required? No. Is it cheap insurance? Absolutely.

What does a Watts relief valve actually do?

Watts makes a range of relief valves, but the one you're probably looking at is for a water heater or boiler. Its job is simple: if pressure gets too high, it opens and releases water before something gives.

I had a client last March who called in a panic. His relief valve was dripping, and he wanted to know if he could just cap it off. I told him capping a relief valve is basically disarming a safety device. If that tank goes, you're looking at a $10,000+ insurance claim—or worse.

The valve itself costs maybe $25-40. Replacing it takes 15 minutes. Ignoring it? Catastrophic.

One more thing: these valves have a lifespan. Most manufacturers recommend testing them annually and replacing every 3-5 years. I wish I'd tracked how many failed valves we've replaced over the years, but anecdotally, it's a lot. People don't think about them until they fail.

How many watts does a heat pump use?

This one comes up more than you'd think. The honest answer is: it depends. A typical air-source heat pump draws somewhere between 2,000 and 5,000 watts when running. But that number swings based on tonnage, efficiency rating, outdoor temperature, and whether it's in heating or cooling mode.

I'm not 100% sure on the exact draw for every model, and specs change year to year. What I can tell you is that if you're sizing a circuit for one, don't guess. Get the nameplate data.

This was accurate as of early 2025 for the models we carry. But verify your specific unit—manufacturers update their specs, and running a heat pump on an undersized circuit is a recipe for nuisance tripping.

Is a handy MIG welder worth it for plumbing work?

Depends on what you're doing. For most plumbing work? No. You're not welding copper or PEX. But if you're doing custom fabrication, repairing steel pipe supports, or working on industrial systems, a portable MIG welder can pay for itself.

I bought a cheap one in my first year on the job, thinking I'd use it all the time. I used it maybe four times in twelve months. It wasn't until I started doing more custom work that it made sense.

Here's the TCO angle: a $300 MIG welder that sits in your truck and gets used twice a year is a $300 paperweight. But if you're paying a fabricator $75/hour for small jobs, a decent $600 welder pays for itself in about ten jobs. Do the math before you buy.

What about the HD18-2 1/2" 2-speed hammer drill?

Okay, this is a specific tool. I've used it, and I've sold a lot of them. It's a solid mid-range hammer drill. Two speeds, 1/2" chuck, enough torque for most plumbing and electrical work.

What I like is the two-speed gearbox. Low gear for driving anchors into concrete, high gear for drilling pilot holes. It's not the lightest tool, but it's built to last.

My TCO take: cheap hammer drills die fast. I've seen guys buy a $50 no-name drill every six months. After two years, that's $200 and a lot of frustration. A decent drill like the HD18-2 costs more upfront, but I've seen them last 5+ years in daily use. That's the cheaper path.

What's the hidden cost most contractors miss on emergency valve orders?

If I had to pick one thing, it's the cost of the wrong part. When you're in a rush, you grab the first valve that looks right. Then you get to the job site and realize the threads don't match, or the pressure rating is wrong.

We see this constantly. A contractor orders a Watts relief valve in a panic, we ship it overnight, and then it's the wrong model. Now they're paying for overnight shipping twice, and the job is delayed another day.

The fix? Verify the part number before you order. I know that sounds obvious, but when you're stressed and the clock is ticking, it's easy to skip. After the third time we ate the cost of a rush shipping error, we implemented a policy: no rush order goes out without a photo of the old part or the exact model number.

That policy has saved us—and our clients—thousands.

Anything else?

One last thing. I've been doing this long enough to know that the cheapest option on the shelf is rarely the cheapest option in the long run. A $15 valve that fails in six months costs you a service call, a replacement, and possibly water damage. A $40 valve that lasts ten years is the better deal.

That's not a sales pitch. It's just math.